In Uganda, boda bodas are a quick and popular way to get around town. But for Andrew Mutawe, a tour guide with Keefa Motor Tours, the boda isn’t just transport—it’s a trusty steed that offers tourists a scenic, thrilling, and authentic way to explore Kampala.
This was evident during a recent expedition that saw a group of Dutch tourists discover the capital’s vibrant character—from the serene Bahá’í Temple and historic Independence Monument, to the towering Gaddafi Mosque, lively markets, and bustling city streets.
Exploring Kampala on Two Wheels
Founded in 2012, Keefa Motor Tours offers visitors a unique opportunity to experience Kampala’s blend of history, culture, and everyday life—both uptown and downtown—on a boda boda.
Before every tour, Mutawe ensures that all motorcycles are fully serviced and stationed at the group’s accommodation—in this case, Bushpig Backpackers Hostel. Safety, he says, comes first.
“I always brief tourists on what to expect, how to mount and dismount the motorcycle, and I encourage them to carry a small backpack for personal belongings like phones and money,” Mutawe explains. “That way, they can enjoy the tour without worrying about losing anything, especially downtown where it gets busy.”
Mutawe emphasizes courtesy and discipline among riders. All Keefa Motor Tours drivers are trained to use polite language, follow traffic rules, and make tourists feel comfortable throughout the journey. Each visitor chooses their preferred rider and is provided with a helmet for the day.
Stops Along the Ride
The Bahá’í Temple
The first stop was the peaceful Bahá’í Temple in Kikaaya. For many of the Dutch visitors, riding on a boda was a once-in-a-lifetime thrill—some laughed nervously, others held tightly onto the seat rails as they rode through Kampala’s hills.
At the temple, a guide named Evas shared the history of the Bahá’í Faith in Uganda.
She explained that it was introduced in 1951 by Musa and Samiyyeh Banani from Iran and Philip Hainsworth, a Briton. By 1954, the faith had grown to over 500 members, leading to the construction of Africa’s only continental Bahá’í Temple between 1958 and 1961.
The visitors admired the temple’s tranquil gardens and striking architecture—some even marveled at the jackfruit trees surrounding the compound.
The Beverly Hills of Kampala: Kololo
From Kikaaya, the group rode to Kololo, often dubbed “the Beverly Hills of Kampala,” home to embassies, diplomatic residences, and lush neighborhoods.
At Kololo Airstrip, Mutawe narrated how the area got its name—from the words of Chief Awich of Payira, who was imprisoned there by the British. His lament, “An atye kany kololo” (“I am here alone,” in Luo), was misunderstood by the colonizers, who adopted “Kololo” as the place name.
He also explained that the airstrip is where the Union Jack was lowered on October 9, 1962, marking Uganda’s independence—a site still used for national celebrations today.
The Independence Monument
The next stop was the Independence Monument along Speke Road, a sculpture by Gregory Maloba symbolizing Uganda’s freedom from colonial rule. Mutawe led the group in singing a stanza of the Ugandan national anthem, inspiring the Dutch tourists to respond with their own, “Het Wilhelmus.”
A Taste of Downtown Life
The ride continued to Nakasero Market, where the tourists got a firsthand experience of Kampala’s bustling trade. Mutawe guided them in a single file through the colorful stalls. Adventurous as ever, the visitors sampled Ugandan snacks like roasted grasshoppers, banana chips, sim sim seeds, and apple bananas.
From there, they stopped at the Old Taxi Park, capturing panoramic photos of the city’s organized chaos—an entirely different rhythm from the calm trams and trains back in the Netherlands.
Lunch and the Gaddafi Mosque
After a busy morning, the group stopped for lunch at Rahim Foods near Namayumba Bus Park, where they shared Ugandan favorites—matooke, pilau rice, fried chicken, chapati, and groundnut sauce—served in a large communal lusaniya platter.
Next was the majestic Gaddafi Mosque, East Africa’s largest. Guided by Fatuma Naluja, the tourists learned that the mosque was first envisioned in 1972 under Idi Amin but completed in 2007 with funding from former Libyan leader Muammar Gaddafi.
Naluja explained that the mosque’s design blends African, Islamic, and European architectural styles, accommodating over 15,000 worshippers. Climbing the 166-foot minaret, the tourists were treated to sweeping views of Kampala’s iconic hills—Mengo, Rubaga, Nakasero, Namirembe, Makerere, and Kololo.
A Toast to Banange Beer
The final stop was Banange Breweries along Kyadondo Road, where the visitors learned about Uganda’s craft beer scene and sampled popular brews like Banange Lite Ale, Belgian Witbier, Amber Ale, and IPA—each crafted to suit local tastes.
Tourists’ Impressions
For Lynn, the experience was a mix of excitement and emotion:“It was a moment of happiness, but I was also scared—I almost peed my pants laughing! I think the mosque impressed me most. It was my first time entering an Islamic place, and it was really special.”
Rebecca loved the efficiency of exploring by motorcycle:“It’s the best way to see the city. Walking would take too long, and cars get stuck in traffic. On the boda, I felt relaxed and free.”
Emily described the tour as pure adventure: “You see so much in one day. I loved going downtown to the market—it shows the real city. My female rider was amazing—such a badass!”
For Hank Jan, the Gaddafi Mosque was the highlight, while Ellen appreciated the city’s rhythm and energy, saying she was glad she took the ride despite the initial nerves.
Luuk summed it up best:“It was a 100 percent bustling experience from start to finish—beautiful architecture, great people, and the perfect ending with a cold Banange beer.”
An Adventure Worth Taking
For Keefa Motor Tours, it’s not just about sightseeing—it’s about giving visitors a glimpse into the heartbeat of Kampala from the back of a boda boda. Fast, personal, and unforgettable, it’s the kind of journey that leaves both dust on your shoes and joy in your heart.
